Fira and Oia get most of the attention. The clifftop sunsets, the blue domes, the photographs that look identical across a thousand travel feeds — that version of Santorini is real, but it is also well-rehearsed. Two villages, a short drive south, offer something different: the island as it looked before package tourism rewrote it.
Pyrgos and Megalochori were shaped by Venetian fortification, pirate raids, and the wine trade. Their streets were built to confuse invaders, not to pose for cameras. Combined with a stop at the summit monastery of Profitis Ilias, they make up one of the most historically layered half-days on the island.
Related read: A Guide to Ecotourism in Santorini
Explore Santorini’s Medieval Villages With a Local Driver
Want to see Pyrgos, Megalochori, and Emporio without worrying about driving or parking?
Look for a flexible private tour or transfer service that links these traditional villages of Santorini with a stop at Prophet Elias Monastery, the island’s highest viewpoint.
A common option is a 4–6 hour island tour that includes time to walk the alleys of Pyrgos village, Megalochori village, and the medieval Castelli of Emporio, with the route adapted to your pace and interests.
If you prefer to go deeper, you can also look for itineraries that add quieter neighborhoods like Finikia village and Vothonas village, or combine the villages with a traditional wineries stop for tastings.
Pyrgos: Santorini’s Medieval Capital
Pyrgos Kallistis — “Beauty Tower” — sits amphitheatrically on a central hill, offering views across Santorini in almost every direction. It was once the island’s capital, before that role transferred to Fira in the modern era. What remains is a typical example of medieval architecture: narrow, labyrinthine streets, fortified walls, and hidden passages — and, by the standards of Santorini, relatively little tourism.
The village has more than 40 churches — some with blue domes that photograph well from the castle ramparts, others small enough to miss entirely on a first pass. The Church of Theotokaki is among the oldest on the island, dating to the 10th century. The Church of Panagia Eisodion, built between 1660 and 1661, sits at the highest point of the Kasteli and holds Byzantine icons and a carved wooden iconostasis. Most are unlocked only for services or by arrangement with locals — wandering upward through the alleys eventually delivers you to whichever one is open.
The pace here is different. The sounds of the village — backgammon at the local ouzeria, the occasional cat — mark a tempo some distance from the ferry port and the queues at the caldera rim.
Related read: Medieval Santorini Villages: Where the Island Finally Slows Down
Inside the Kasteli
The Castle of Pyrgos was built around 1580 during the Venetian period — the most recent of the five fortified settlements constructed on Santorini. Its elevated position gave defenders a clear line of sight across the Aegean and the plains below, while its design focused on deterring pirate raids.
The maze-like structure, with low two-storied houses and sheltered balconies, was deliberately designed to confound anyone who managed to breach the walls. The castle had just one entrance gate, locked at sunset. Above the entrance there was a single opening through which boiling oil could be poured on anyone who made it that far. The settlement was also built upon a network of underground passages, intended as a last refuge if the castle fell.
The Kasteli largely escaped the damage of the 1956 earthquake that reshaped much of the island, which is why it remains the best-preserved of the five Venetian fortifications on Santorini. Walking through it now, the geometry of the defense is still readable in the street plan: dead ends, sharp turns, no direct sight lines.
Megalochori: The Wine Merchants’ Village
Megalochori dates to at least the 17th century and was built around the wealth of merchants who exported Vinsanto wine across the Mediterranean. Neoclassical mansions — formerly owned by wealthy landowners and wine traders — sit alongside cave houses and traditional dwellings along a network of winding paths that converge on the main square.
The money is visible in the architecture. The high exterior walls and heavy wooden doors of the older mansions were not purely aesthetic: they also provided protection against the same pirates that threatened Pyrgos, making Megalochori a place that had to defend itself while also projecting prosperity.
The village square is the natural stopping point — shaded, calm, and ringed with cafes and tavernas where the pace of the afternoon is not hurried. The bell tower of the Virgin Mary Church stands above the square’s main alley, its six bells framed in white arches over the cobblestones below. The village is small enough that most paths eventually arrive at the same square, which makes getting disoriented in the alleys feel harmless.
The surrounding plains are covered with vineyards producing Assyrtiko grapes and Vinsanto wine — the same trade that funded the mansions still standing in the village. Several wineries operate within a few minutes of the village, including Boutari and Gavalas.
Profitis Ilias: The Island from 567 Meters
The Monastery of Profitis Ilias sits at approximately 567 meters above sea level — the highest point on Santorini — and offers views of essentially the entire island from its yard. On a clear day, the caldera, the village clusters, and the Aegean are all visible at once.
The monastery was founded in 1711 by two monks from Pyrgos, brothers named Joachim and Gabriel. It was built to resemble a fortress — monks on Santorini in the early 18th century had the same concern about pirates as the villagers below. For about 150 years, it functioned as an educational and economic institution: it ran a school teaching Greek language and literature through the Ottoman period, and operated a trading ship across the Aegean and Mediterranean.
A few monks still live and work there today. The monastery houses a collection of rare ecclesiastical items, handwritten books, and Byzantine icons, along with active workshops for printing, shoemaking, and candlemaking. The monks also produce wine.
Daily evening prayers run for anyone interested in attending; confirm the times before visiting. The biggest day of the year is July 20th, the feast of Saint Elias, when locals make the journey up for the full service and vigil.
Access is either by car along a winding paved road from Pyrgos or on foot via a 2.5km trail clearly marked from the main square in Pyrgos. The trail takes about an hour to an hour and a half each way.
Practical Information
- Getting to Pyrgos: Regular KTEL buses run from Fira’s central bus station to Pyrgos. Take the Fira–Akrotiri route and exit at the 9th stop, which is an 8-minute walk to the village center. By car, Pyrgos is about 10 minutes southeast of Fira.
- Getting to Megalochori: Located in the southwestern part of the island, roughly a 10-minute drive from Pyrgos or 15 minutes from Fira. By bus, take the Fira–Perissa line and exit at the Megalochori stop. Parking is available near the main road by the Family Bakery.
- Profitis Ilias: No direct bus reaches the summit. The closest bus stops are on the Fira–Kamari route (15th stop) and the Fira–Perissa route (9th stop), both about 3km from the monastery. The 2.5km hiking trail from Pyrgos is clearly marked and takes 60–75 minutes. By car, follow the paved road uphill from Pyrgos village center.
- What to wear: Comfortable walking shoes are needed for both castle alleys and the monastery trail. Shoulders and knees should be covered to enter the monastery and any open churches. Bring sun protection — there is little shade on the trail to the summit.
- When to go: Early morning visits to Pyrgos and Megalochori avoid the warmest part of the day and the tour groups that arrive mid-morning. For Profitis Ilias, the late afternoon offers the best light and cooler temperatures for the trail. Related read: Reasons to Visit Santorini in the Shoulder Season
- Entry costs: No admission fee for Pyrgos village or Megalochori. The monastery charges no entry fee, though donations are welcome. Some churches may be closed unless a local can arrange access.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you walk between Pyrgos and the Profitis Ilias Monastery?
Yes. A marked 2.5km trail starts from the main square in Pyrgos and climbs to the monastery. The route takes around 60–75 minutes each way and is moderately demanding due to elevation gain. The trail passes through scrubland and vineyards and is not shaded, so start early and bring water.
Is the Profitis Ilias Monastery open to visitors?
The monastery grounds and exterior are accessible, but the interior is generally not open to the public except during daily evening prayers (5pm–6:30pm) and on religious holidays, particularly July 20th. A small gift shop near the entrance sells products made by the monks. Modest dress — covered shoulders and knees — is required.
How much time should you allow for Pyrgos and Megalochori?
Allow around 50 minutes to an hour for Pyrgos, including the castle and a stop in the square. Megalochori warrants 30–40 minutes for walking the alleys and the square. Adding Profitis Ilias as a third stop — by car, not on foot — adds around 30–40 minutes including the drive and the views from the top.
Are Pyrgos and Megalochori suitable for travelers with limited mobility?
Both villages involve cobblestoned, uneven alleyways and steps, particularly inside Pyrgos castle. Mobility aids will have difficulty with sections of both. The main squares and lower streets of Megalochori are more accessible. The road to Profitis Ilias by car is fully paved.
Is there somewhere to eat in Pyrgos?
Yes. Pyrgos has a strong local food scene concentrated around the main square and the streets below the castle. Several restaurants there have received national recognition. The square also has cafes open from morning. Megalochori has a smaller selection of tavernas around its own square.
What is the difference between these villages and the main Santorini tourist areas?
Oia and Fira are built largely around their caldera views and the tourism infrastructure that has developed around them. Pyrgos and Megalochori predate that infrastructure — the Venetian castle in Pyrgos was designed as a fortification, and Megalochori’s mansions were built by wine merchants before the island became a travel destination. Neither village is undiscovered, but both operate at a noticeably slower pace and show a different physical history of the island.
